Discovering the Soul of New Orleans: A Traveler’s Guide
New Orleans is one-of-a-kind, to say the least. Rich history, a unique culture, AMAZING food, and so much to do that no one could ever be bored. It can even be a bit overwhelming! So many visitors stick to the French Quarter and Bourbon Street, but doing so is doing yourself a disservice. Instead, find the true magic by exploring the whole of the city.
NOLA’s Roots
In 1718, French colonists founded La Nouvelle-Orleans, a city designed to connect trading routes between the Mississippi River, Lake Pontchartrain, and the Gulf of Mexico. However, much of the population was considered “riffraff” – deported slaves, gold hunters, and gruff trappers. Despite this, in less than four years, the city grew quickly and replaced Biloxi as the capital of French Louisiana.
In 1803, Napoleon sold New Orleans to the United States in the Louisiana Purchase. The city continued to grow rapidly, with cultures mixing – American, African, French – into what we now call Creole. The Haitian Revolution played a large part in this, as refugees flooded the shores. Additionally, the Revolution increased the rising tensions of the Louisiana Slaves, until in 1811, hundreds of slaves rose up in the largest slave rebellion in U.S. history. Only two white men were killed, but over five plantation houses, several sugar cane mills, and a large number of crops were burned.
New Orleans played a large role in the War of 1812, particularly the Battle of New Orleans, during which both soldiers and privateers like Jean Lafitte fought side-by-side against the British and drove them from the area, killing nearly a third of the British troops.
By the 1840s, NOLA was the third-largest city in the United States. It had become a major commercial center, with a branch of the United States Mint, major slave trading companies, and other businesses. When the Civil War began, New Orleans was captured by the Union almost immediately and without a battle, leaving the city and the culture intact. Despite its history of color division, in 1872, P.B.S. Pinchback became governor of Louisiana, the first non-white governor in any U.S. state, and New Orleans implemented an integrated public school system. This led to a surprisingly liberal city for the time, although segregation did still exist in other ways.
The city spent the next 70 years navigating ups and downs, from high-profile military contracts that boosted the economy to devastating epidemics of yellow fever, from becoming a growing trade hub to dealing with numerous hurricanes and tropical storms (weather that still periodically wreaks havoc upon the city). During the Civil Rights Movement, New Orleans was an important center, home to the Southern Christian Leadership Conference, and leading to important political changes within.
Where to Stay
Since we are in the RV, we often stay just outside major cities, but in New Orleans, it can be fun to stay within city limits so you don’t miss the action. Either way, there are some great options.
Grand Isle State Park
Located on a barrier island, this park offers stunning beach views and a relaxed atmosphere. It’s a bit of a drive from the city, but the peace and quiet are worth it.
French Quarter Inn
This historic inn offers charming rooms in the heart of the French Quarter, with balconies overlooking the action. It provides a comfortable and central location for exploring the city while staying affordable.
Hotel Monteleone
This historic French Quarter hotel is known for its elegant decor and the famous Carousel Bar. It offers a classic New Orleans experience with a touch of luxury. It also has a rooftop pool, and is located in the middle of the French Quarter.
Where to Eat
It’s time to talk food. Because, honestly, you can’t go to New Orleans and not eat. This city is a foodie’s paradise, from fancy Creole joints to those hole-in-the-wall spots that the locals swear by. Here are a few places you absolutely have to try, whether you’re looking for a splurge or just a taste of the real NOLA.
Commander’s Palace
A New Orleans institution, Commander’s Palace offers refined Creole cuisine in an elegant Garden District setting. Known for its impeccable service and award-winning dishes, it’s a splurge-worthy experience.
Café Du Monde
A must-visit for any New Orleans trip, Café Du Monde is famous for its beignets and chicory coffee. Open 24/7, it’s a casual and iconic spot to experience a taste of the city.
Parkway Bakery & Tavern
For a true New Orleans po’boy, head to Parkway Bakery & Tavern. This casual eatery has been serving up delicious sandwiches since 1929. The roast beef po’boy is a local favorite.
- A mix of casual and upscale dining options.
- Highlight restaurants with outdoor seating or patios.
- Mention cafes and bakeries for coffee and pastries.
- Include a section on local specialties (beignets, gumbo, po’boys).
- Mention dog-friendly patios or restaurants.
Things to Do
This city isn’t just about the food and the past; it’s about diving into the culture, the music, and all the unique quirks that make it so unforgettable. From museums that’ll blow your mind to swamp tours that’ll have you holding your breath, here are some must-do’s to really get under New Orleans’ skin.
The National WWII Museum
This museum offers a unique and immersive experience, telling the story of World War II through the personal experiences of individuals. It features interactive exhibits, films, and a vast collection of artifacts, including a simulated submarine experience.
New Orleans Museum Of Art
Explore over 40,000 pieces by global artists from various historical periods. Highlights include art photography and collections of glass, ceramics, and Chinese ceramics.
Magazine Street
This six-mile stretch offers a diverse mix of locally-owned shops, including clothing boutiques, art galleries, antique stores, and home decor shops.
Kermit’s Treme Mother-In-Law Lounge
For an authentic New Orleans jazz experience, head to Kermit’s Tremé Mother-in-Law Lounge. Owned by the legendary Kermit Ruffins, this vibrant spot is a local favorite, offering live music in a laid-back, colorful setting. It’s a true taste of Tremé culture and a must-visit for jazz enthusiasts.
Cajun Encounters
For a truly immersive Louisiana experience, hop aboard a swamp tour with Cajun Encounters. Glide through the bayous and swamps, and keep your eyes peeled for alligators, birds, and other wildlife. It’s a thrilling and educational adventure that showcases the natural beauty of the region.
LaLaurie Mansion
This mansion is notorious for its dark past. Built in 1832 in the Federal style, it became infamous when a fire in 1834 revealed the horrific treatment of enslaved people by Madame Delphine LaLaurie and her husband, Dr. Leonard Louis Nicolas LaLaurie. Reports detailed unimaginable suffering, mutilation, and torture. The LaLaurie’s fled New Orleans after the revelations. The mansion remains a site of legend and is often associated with paranormal activity.
New Orleans Pharmacy Museum
This museum showcases the world of early pharmacies and medicine. It is located in the former residence and apothecary of Louis J. Dufilho, Jr., the first licensed pharmacist in the United States. 2 The building, a classic two-level Creole townhouse, was constructed in 1822-1823. 3 The museum features exhibits of early medicines, medical instruments, and voodoo potions. 4 Local legend claims that a later resident, Dr. James Dupas, a physician who also lived and practiced there, conducted unethical medical experiments on patients within the building’s walls. 5 These stories contribute to the museum’s eerie atmosphere and add a layer of intrigue to its historical significance.
Special Events
New Orleans throws a party like no other. Seriously. This city knows how to celebrate, and if you time your visit right, you can catch some seriously epic events. We’re talking world-famous festivals, parades that’ll leave you speechless, and celebrations of everything from music to literature. Here’s a taste of the New Orleans party calendar.
Mardi Gras
Experience the ultimate New Orleans party! Mardi Gras, held in February or March, is a whirlwind of colorful parades, extravagant costumes, and infectious energy, a true cultural phenomenon.
New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival (Jazz Fest)
A celebration of music and culture, Jazz Fest, held in late April and early May, brings together world-class musicians from jazz, blues, and beyond, alongside delicious food and a vibrant atmosphere.
St. Patrick’s Day
New Orleans puts a unique twist on St. Patrick’s Day, held in March, with lively parades and celebrations that blend Irish traditions with the city’s own distinctive flair.
Satchmo SummerFest
Honor the legendary Louis Armstrong at this festival, held in August, dedicated to his music and legacy, featuring live jazz performances and mouthwatering New Orleans cuisine.
Tennessee Williams & New Orleans Literary Festival
Dive into the world of literature and theater at this festival, held in March, celebrating the iconic playwright, with readings, performances, and discussions.
Dog-Friendly New Orleans
You might be surprised at just how welcoming New Orleans is to four-legged travelers! Beyond the beignets and jazz, this city has a real soft spot for pups. With plenty of parks, patios, and even some unique dog-friendly spots, you and your furry friend will feel right at home.
City Bark
Let your dog burn off some energy at City Bark, a popular dog park with separate areas for small and large breeds. It’s a great place for your pup to socialize and stretch their legs.
Café Envie
Enjoy a taste of New Orleans with your dog by your side at Café Envie. This French Quarter café welcomes dogs on their outdoor patio, so you can savor some chicory coffee and beignets together.
The Fly at Audubon Park
For a scenic walk or picnic with your dog, head to The Fly at Audubon Park. This riverside area offers beautiful views of the Mississippi River and plenty of green space for your dog to explore.
Local Day Trips
Okay, so you’ve explored New Orleans, soaked in the culture, and maybe even had a few too many beignets. But there’s so much more to Louisiana beyond the city limits! If you’re up for a little road trip, there are some seriously cool spots just a short drive away. Think history, Cajun culture, and some seriously stunning scenery.
Baton Rouge
Louisiana’s state capital, Baton Rouge, offers a fascinating blend of history and culture. Explore the Louisiana State Capitol building, a stunning art deco skyscraper, or wander through the LSU Rural Life Museum to step back in time. Foodies will love the local Cajun and Creole cuisine, and history buffs can delve into the city’s Civil War past at the USS Kidd Veterans Museum.
Lafayette
Immerse yourself in the heart of Cajun Country in Lafayette. This vibrant city is known for its lively music scene, delicious Cajun and Creole food, and rich cultural heritage. Visit Vermilionville, a living history museum, to experience Cajun and Creole life in the 18th and 19th centuries. And don’t miss the chance to catch some live music at a local dance hall.
Avery Island
Home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce factory, Avery Island offers a unique day trip experience. Take a tour of the factory, explore the beautiful Jungle Gardens, and learn about the island’s fascinating history, which includes a bird refuge. Don’t forget to sample some Tabasco-infused treats!
